IGX

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe1tyR4wMg8

tells the story of how Shaun Tomson, Mark Richards, Rabbit Bartholomew, and others from outside Hawaii became champion surfer
and were subjected to death threats, violence and almost driven out of pro surfing. Thanks to Eddie Aikau's father they survived.
It's an amazing film.

I read about these guys in surfer magazine starting in about 1976 and saw the movie Free Ride in 1977 in Cocoa Beach Florida.
https://www.google.com/search?client=fi ... klQJE,st:0

I previously posted a link to. this is not the full movie which I saw in 1977. there are a few sections left out -probably ten minutes or so. I don't know why it has not been released again on DVD
It can be watched on Vimeo
https://www.freeridefilm.com/

Bram
Do you know how accurate big wave measurements are? This one by Makua Rothman at Jaws is said to be 100 feet. Do you think that's possible. I can't believe he paddled into it. What do you think?

Hope you are catching good waves and practicing the communication methods in People Skills.
lenny

I’ve seen Bustin’ Down the Door and liked it. They were the first to turn surfing into a career, and what a cool life to have!

Haven’t watched Free Ride, but have a surf friend living with me, and we’ll give it a go. Thanks, Lenny!

The surf measurement’s are confusing to me. And it’s hard to comprehend what an experience like that would be like…I’m scared of waves that are much, much smaller.

Recently, a guy surfed a wave at Maverick’s estimated to be 108-feet. But that looked like another giant wave to me, not necessarily the biggest.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JjRLqIt3TFA

I highly recommend HBO’s 100 Foot Wave. Both seasons are excellent.

Been scoring super fun waves in San Diego and working on my People Skills. Thanks L! Hope you’re skating, surfing, and staying out of trouble

Been carveboarding and training with bodyweight, gymnastic rings, dumbbells (loaded carries, jump with dumbells instead of dumbell or barbell power cleans) practicing krav maga,. Also the big 3 from Stuart McGill and some other exercises he has for MMA on a DVD I have.

I went back to the conventional straight barbell deadlift from the official height and am relearning it from this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBbyAqvTNkU
I gave up on the hex barbell deadlift because I was not able to set up in the right place a high enough percentage of the reps. At times the hex bar was very unstable. A lot of people use it but I was afraid of getting badly injured. I used Allan Thrall's cues from the above video and got up to a body weight deadlift for a single which is not bad for someone who probably shouldn't deadlift. I have no idea how much damage I have done to my back. it doesn't hurt right now but I'm afraid I could be not too far from badly injuring it.

Dan John said people over 65 or so should deadlift from the pins of a squat rack from either above or below the knee. I have a squat rack at my wife's that i might bring here. I still think of moving to Florida. i have a dreadful feeling about the future of Israel. I can't leave now for a lot of reasons. There was an incoming missile alarm at about 3AM last night. I won't go into the details of what I think will happen. Total destruction of Israel is one very realistic possibility. Erdogan the president for many more years of Turkey has nuclear weapons, wants to take over the Middle East and has funded the terrorists who deposed the Assad regime in Syria. The terrorists say they are moderate but they are not afraid of Israel like Assad was.

I did a modified German hang at the park across the street from me yesterday. It looked somewhat like this that starts at 1:11 in the video
https://www.google.com/search?client=fi ... eMY98,st:0

There was all new equipment in the park including parallel bars I used straight arms to go from one end to the other.
https://www.google.com/search?client=fi ... DF2dA,st:0
Maybe 8 feet. I couldn't believe I did it. I was too tired to try and go backwards like the guy in the video. Maybe next time. I haven't tried anything like that in maybe 20 years. There was a rope of about 10 feet high I started to climb but my right shoulder hurt too much. I used to do that about 15 years ago.

I have been practicing Brad Gehrlach's wave ki front side take off at home every other day. I am getting better at it. I haven't surfed in probably 3 months for a lot of reasons. Some are related to getting killed by a missile strike blowing up a fuel storage depot that I may have written about.


What was your impression of Gehrlach's wave ki lessons? You said a friend was using it. I think that Gerlach should have filmed part of it in a wave park. Doing what he calls the short form seems stupid to me because who surfs 7 waves in three and a half minutes the average length of the short form videos. I think it would be better to practice the form and take a break and visualize the next repetition of the form and then do it.

I'm not getting into trouble. Really glad to hear you are working on People Skills and surfing is fun.
I checked out the 108 foot wave. I couldn’t tell it was any bigger than any other big wave.
I'll check out 100 foot waves episodes which I heard of but never watched.


thanks for the links
All the best
lenny

With regards to Wave Ki….

In my mind, there’s three factors in surfing technique:

1) What looks cool
2) What is effective
3) What is bio-mechanically safe

For example, there's two main ways to do a carve in surfing. Both effective, one bio-mechanically safe, the other looks cool.

In the first, the surfer collapses his back knee into valgus. Looks cooler, less safe. 3x World Champ John John Florence surfs this way:



In the second, the back knee tracks the toes. Looks less cool, safer. 3x World Champ Gabriel Medina surfs this way:



Wave Ki promotes the less-safe way. If I was doing Wave Ki, I’d be wary of that cue and keep the back knee tracking the toes. I assume all his other details are spot on.