Bustin Down the Door Great Surf Doc

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lenny
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Bustin Down the Door Great Surf Doc

Post by lenny »


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XYPaIg ... kateMovies

This is a fascinating documentary about late 1970s surf stars - Wayne Rabbit Bartholomew, Shaun Tomson, Mark Richards, Ian Cairns, and others who paved the way for pro surfing. I was reading Surfer Magazine in those years and saw their photos but never knew the whole story of how a few of them could have been killed. It was thanks to legendary surfer and lifeguard Eddie Aikau, a true hero and a great human being that they weren't.