IGX

You're the resident expert.

Are Stag's any good??

reliability wise??

Yeah, not going to go throuh the hassle of a stamp.....just going to throw it in the closet, in case I ever need it.

tripp221 wrote:You're the resident expert.

Are Stag's any good??

reliability wise??

Yeah, not going to go throuh the hassle of a stamp.....just going to throw it in the closet, in case I ever need it.

Stag is a recognized lower mid teir producer of Ar15s. If all you are going to do is throw it in the closet, then almost any mainline produced AR15 will do. NO need to get caught up in specs etc.

Batboy2/75 wrote:Also, if you have the standard M-16 handguard, do not use your sling for stabilization. You are fucking with the point of aim. I don't care what your Drill Sgt said; he's a dumbass. I don't care that you shot expert; you got lucky. When taking a shot over 100 meters, grip the magazine well when shooting off hand and use the magazine a a monopod when in the prone.

Bumping an old thread b/c I have a question for Bats.

Bats, I was non-infantry so my only real time behind the M16 was on the KD range. This was in the early 2000s, pre-ACOG, A2 still the standard. If memory serves course of fire was 200yd slowfire sitting, kneeling, off-hand, 300yd rapid fire sitting, kneeling (could be wrong here, I can't remember 300 yard line course for some reason), 500yd slowfire prone. Taught all the usual range stuff - hasty sling, loop sling, keep magazine well off the ground in the prone, etc. etc.

If using a sling and gripping the handguard fucks up the point-of-aim, why did/do they teach it this way? Is it a hold-over from the M1/M14 battle rifle days? Has gripping the magazine well always been in practice or only recently discovered over the last decade of clearing haji houses?

Asking because I recently picked up an A2 clone (since I was most familiar with it), want to put some range time in and all I know is what the range DIs taught me.

Who knows why. The service rifle teams knew about the issue years ago and as a result they were some of the first people in the military to free floated their barrels.

You can grip the hand guard, just be aware of any shift in the point of impact. Using the handguard for short range stuff is fine. If taking a long shot, switch to a shooting technique that doesn't put pressure on the handguards.

Batboy2/75 wrote:Who knows why. The service rifle teams knew about the issue years ago and as a result they were some of the first people in the military to free floated their barrels.

You can grip the hand guard, just be aware of any shift in the point of impact. Using the handguard for short range stuff is fine. If taking a long shot, switch to a shooting technique that doesn't put pressure on the handguards.

If you have a rail with a pistol instead of the older handguard, does that advice still apply? I'd assume it probably does but wanted to ask.

DARTH wrote:

Batboy2/75 wrote:Who knows why. The service rifle teams knew about the issue years ago and as a result they were some of the first people in the military to free floated their barrels.

You can grip the hand guard, just be aware of any shift in the point of impact. Using the handguard for short range stuff is fine. If taking a long shot, switch to a shooting technique that doesn't put pressure on the handguards.

If you have a rail with a pistol instead of the older handguard, does that advice still apply? I'd assume it probably does but wanted to ask.

If the pistol grip is attached to a non-floated handguard, the use of the pistol grip/hand guard will shift the point of the bullets impact. Again, short distance, not a big issue. Long distance, you will see a change.

Darth,

The total effects of a non-floating barrel is debatable. Some people act like pressure on the hand guards will throw off the point of impact my a mile. I had a guy claim that simply resting the hand guard on a sand bag for supported shifted the point of impact. In general this claim is false. Unless you have a heavy optic mounted on your AR15, the weight of the Ar15 is not enough to effect the barrel when resting in such a manner. However, starting at 100 yards and out it will have some effect. The effect will only be magnified the further the distance you are shooting. The good news is that this effect can be overcome with proper technique.

.

Wrong thread.

Time for some more AR15 talk..

At what distance should you zero your AR15 in 5.56 or .223?

25 Yards?
50 yards?
100 yards?

25 yard zero is what the military teaches and is a sub par zero. It produces a crazy arch. Do not use this zero.

In my opinion the 50 yard zero gives you the best possible zero for iron sights and 1x power red dots. From 0-50 yards the M193 round at it's lowest point is -3 inches; from 50 to 225 yards it's highest point is +3 inches; from 225 to 300 yards the bullet drop is -6 inches. This should allow you to engage targets from 0-300 yards without adjusting your iron sights or your optic. MY favorite zero for iron sights and 1 x power red dots.

The 100 yard zero is all the rage with AR15 bunnies. It's actually not a very bad zero as your 55 grn bullet will be within -3 out to 200 yards. It out past 200 yards that this zero starts to fall apart with a -12 drop at 300 yards. This is an excellent zero for a magnified optic. With a 1 power red dot or irons, it's sub par. -12 drop seems manageable until you actually sight in a target at 300 yards. your front sight post or 2 MOA red dot will cover a good portion of the target.

25 yard zero? For basic trainees and chumps.
50 yard zero? For irons and 1 power red dots.
100 yard zero? For magnified optics.

How do you fit your AR-15 in your EDC bag, Batboy?

Terry B wrote:How do you fit your AR-15 in your EDC bag, Batboy?

If and when I carry a Ar15 when out and about; it's a Pistol variant. In my case I my AR15 pistol is a 5.7x28 variant. The overall size fits nicely into a back pack w/ a specially designed chest rig and (4) 50 round magazines loaded with HP rounds. This back pack is my get home bag for that moment when Mt. Rainier erupts and Western Washington becomes NOLA Katrina redux.

This is my trunk gun or car gun. It usually stays in the car cable locked to the frame of the car. That is usually where it stays, unless I feel the area is too sketchy to leave the rifle in the car and or I'm going to be away for a long period of time.

The pistol AR 15 is perfect for avoiding a $200.00 NFA tax stamp for a SBR (Short Barrel Rifle) and with my concealed carry permit, it allows me to legally drive around with basically a loaded rifle up front with me.

Alright....

All these dudes building up their own shit with near zero knowledge of gunsmithery seem to be having fun. What are the chances any of them are turning out a decent AR?

What are the common pitfalls? Any real advantages?

Also...when I was hunting no one ever considered an AR platform gun really, it was never more complicated than a bolt action sumpin sumpin usually .30-06 east of the cascades, .30-30 lever guns out west. now lots of dudes are using and AR as their allrounder. What say you to this?

Blaidd Drwg wrote:Alright....

All these dudes building up their own shit with near zero knowledge of gunsmithery seem to be having fun. What are the chances any of them are turning out a decent AR?

Pretty high if they are buying parts from well known sources. Even then, it's more assembly than building. You really have to work hard at fucking it up.

Blaidd Drwg wrote:What are the common pitfalls? Any real advantages?

Pit falls are buying parts from unknown sources with unknown quality. The advantage of assembling your own AR15 is getting exactly the AR with the features you want. Plus, the knowledge about the firearm from assembling. Unless you are a dumbass, You really can't fuck up assembling an AR15. Assembling an AR15 was so easy, I was disappointed and promptly got into building AKs and G3 rifles.

Blaidd Drwg wrote:Also...when I was hunting no one ever considered an AR platform gun really, it was never more complicated than a bolt action sumpin sumpin usually .30-06 east of the cascades, .30-30 lever guns out west. now lots of dudes are using and AR as their allrounder. What say you to this?

The AR15 has come into it's own with hunting. In those states that allow it, 5.56/.223 (with heavier grain bullets) has become a favorite for deer hunting. However 6.8, 6.5, 7.62x39 and .308 AR varient rifles are just as popular. Not to mention, more appropriate for hunting deer and larger game.

I sold my last AR-15 when I got a TAV-D trigger for my Tavor. Now if only IWI would come out with a .300BLK conversion for the rifle.

Batboy2/75 wrote:

Terry B wrote:How do you fit your AR-15 in your EDC bag, Batboy?

This back pack is my get home bag for that moment when Mt. Rainier erupts and Western Washington becomes NOLA Katrina redux.

This is my trunk gun or car gun.

I've had this on my mind as a good house gun or car gun, as well. 7.5" or 10" barrel?

johno wrote:

Batboy2/75 wrote:

Terry B wrote:How do you fit your AR-15 in your EDC bag, Batboy?

This back pack is my get home bag for that moment when Mt. Rainier erupts and Western Washington becomes NOLA Katrina redux.

This is my trunk gun or car gun.

I've had this on my mind as a good house gun or car gun, as well. 7.5" or 10" barrel?

The norm is 10 or 11inch AR15 pistol barrels.

7.5 inches is just too short. Not only do you not produce enough velocity, you start to have cycling issues with the rifle.

Load up with a quality HP 5.56 or .223 round. FMJ rounds don't do anything in short barreled AR15s.

milosz wrote:I sold my last AR-15 when I got a TAV-D trigger for my Tavor. Now if only IWI would come out with a .300BLK conversion for the rifle.

The Travor is nice, but I have other fish to fry at this point; Namely putting together two rifles for Service Rifle competitions.

Also, in my opinion the 300BLK is a complete waste of time unless you are into suppressed weapons.